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Delicious Oaxaca City, MEX: My Favorite Centro Restaurants, Food & Tacos…for $1-20USD per person

Where To Eat In Oaxaca City: The Gastronomic Capital of Mexico

I have no idea how I lost weight while in Oaxaca, Mexico for two months, because I made strong work of trying so much of the amazing food in Oaxaca! And it’s often so cheap to eat amazing food if you stay out of the tourist traps. (Many of the tacos on this list are under $1USD each!) But before we dig in to my favorite places to eat in Oaxaca, you need to understand why Oaxaca is such a big deal.

Oaxaca City is renowned for its rich culinary traditions and diverse flavors.

It’s often considered the gastronomic capital of Mexico, partly because of the indigenous Zapotec and Mixtec flavors, combined with Spanish and other international influences.


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The markets in Oaxaca City are full of vibrant produce, spices, and traditional, local ingredients. Mercado Benito Juárez and Mercado 20 de Noviembre are popular spots where you can immerse yourself in the food culture. But don’t forget that any Mercado in Oaxaca is worth visiting and sampling. 

Carnivore or not, one way or the other you’ll be amazed at the markets in Mexico.
The colors in Mexico are amazing, and that goes for the markets too.

Helpful Things To Know About Oaxaca

Definitions: What Do “Centro” And “Zocalo” Mean?

Just a heads-up on a couple of terms you need to know when talking Mexico. “Centro” means literally central, or center. And typically it’s where everything happens.

A “Zocalo” is literally “the public square or plaza of a Mexican city or town,” and if it’s significant, it’s also often right in the middle of the touristy area.

Zocalos can be massive (Mexico City) or pretty tiny (Queretaro), but the Zocalo in Oaxaca is about the size of a good city block and full of festivities nomatter the time of year! 

The gazebo in the centro, zocalo in Oaxaca, Mexico
The gazebo in the centro, zocalo in Oaxaca, Mexico

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The Best Moles—Born In Oaxaca

Oaxaca is famous for its rich and complex mole sauces, which come in different types like mole negro (dark mole), mole coloradito (red mole, and my favorite so far), and mole verde (green mole). These sauces are typically made from a blend of chilies, nuts, seeds, herbs, and spices, resulting in a symphony of flavors, and you can find them pretty much everywhere. 

Mole on bread in Oaxaca
Look at the spices in that deep, dark mole sauce!
Mole enchiladas on a vibrant tablecloth in Oaxaca Mexico
Mole enchiladas. A plate like this at a local restaurant (not a tourist trap) should only run you about $3-5 USD. Amazing.

Tlayudas: Think Big Crispy Mexican Pizzas…

Another Oaxacan specialty is tlayudas, which are like large, crispy tortillas topped with a variety of ingredients such as beans, meat, cheese, and salsa. They are often enjoyed as a snack or a main dish and offer a delicious combination of textures and flavors.

Or after a night out to soak up some alcohol. I’m not a huge fan, since they tend to be more bread than I care for (#type1diabetes), but they’re a staple. 

Street Food And Food Trucks In Oaxaca

Oaxaca city is also known for street food, but then again, that goes for most Mexican cities. You can find tamales, empanadas, memelas, and quesadillas being freshly prepared and sold by street vendors at any hour of the day. If you’re up for it, try chapulines—toasted grasshoppers seasoned with lime and spices—not my jam, but when in Rome?

Word to the wise, make sure you see a lot of washing of dishes with (semi-) fresh, filtered water around the food stands. And going earlier is always better than later from a tum-tum danger zone standpoint.

Oaxacan Mezcal

Oaxaca is also famous for its mezcal. The traditional Mexican spirit is made from agave plants and offers a smoky and complex flavor profile. Mezcal tasting tours and visits to mezcal distilleries are popular, but there is also an opportunity on nearly every block in centro to step into a Mezcaleria and sample from around the state.  

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Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán in Oaxaca
Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán in Oaxaca

How Do I Convert Money Values/Costs From Mexican Pesos to USD?

The Mexican Peso has been averaging around $17-20MXN per $1USD in recent years. For my calculations, I like to use a rounded-up figure of $20MXN/1USD. It’s just easier, and we’re only talking $.05-.10 difference here.

Now, here comes the math part (nerd alert!) that I do in my head. I take the cost in MXN pesos, drop the zero, and divide by two to estimate the USD equivalent.

Let’s say something costs $200MXN. I drop the zero, divide by two, and it comes to around $10USD. For instance, a hearty egg/veggie torta (with cheese, of course) priced at $50MXN, which is the size of my head, will only set me back about $2.50USD. Now that’s what I call eating well without breaking the bank in the Mexican neighborhood my friend!

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My Travel & Restaurant Style: Cheap And Delicious

My travel style is definitely more budget-minded, but without feeling like I’m crushing my and eating goals.

My daily spend (all-inclusive) was less than $63/day for almost two months as a digital nomad in Oaxaca. 

I only spent about $13/day on average for eating out and fresh groceries from mercados and local stores for eating in! I usually have coffee and work 2-4 hours in the AM before eating a big brunch/lunch, then have a late dinner. The portions are typically huge, so really two-three meals a day is beyond plenty!

How I Picked My Favorite Restaurants and Food in Centro Oaxaca, Mexico

Now, take this with a grain of salt, since there was no way for me to visit every food stand or restaurant in Centro Oaxaca! But did try a lot of different places in the two months while I was there! When it comes down to it, my list of best food and restaurants in Oaxaca comes with a healthy balance of reasons:

  1. Typically I want great food in a reasonable, if not budget price range. 
  2. I want smiles and warmth and to feel welcomed by the restaurant and it’s owners or servers. A little conversation always helps!
  3. The ambiance is important! That can take a place with good food up a notch or two for sure! That can even mean the ambiance of just eating at a food stand and sitting in a park watching folks enjoy the day!
  4. Last but not least is authenticity. Now, that can mean a lot of things. But for me I want to feel like whatever food the restaurant is peddling feels “authentic” as to where it’s supposed to be from, assuming it’s meant to be authentic. I may be a terrible judge of that since I’m not ridiculously well-traveled. But again, it’s just a feeling. Cooking Italian? I want to feel like I’m there when I close my eyes. Cuisine based on Oaxaca, Mexican traditions? It helps to see traditional Oaxacan practices and explanations of why it’s unique, etc.

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The Best Tacos In Oaxaca City, Mexico

Again, tacos are a dime a dozen (ok, not literally…), but I tried a lot of different places that were top rated. There are quite a few Oaxaca taco spots here, all worth trying. And since you can eat at each of them for easily less than $5-10 total—less than $1 a taco usually—why wouldn’t you try them all?

Oh, I do prefer vegetarian, but all bets were off and I took full advantage of trying all the meats as it came to tacos in Oaxaca! 

Taquería Ta’ Bihui

This joint does one thing: Tacos De Lechon—slow-roasted pork tacos, tostadas or tortas with salsa verde and pickled jalapeños (on the side). 4-5 tacos or 2 tostadas or 1 tortas will do you, and eating them with a cerveza on their gorgeous, plant covered patio is fantastic. They have a huge tree right in the middle! Make sure you try their desserts too. 

Tacos de Lechon with pickled peppers and salsa verde tacos
Tacos de Lechon tacos with pickled peppers and salsa verde tacos at Taqueria Bihui.

What to eat at Taqueria Ta’ Bihui
Their slow roasted pork also comes in  “chicharron” variety, which adds kind of a crispy texture to the meal. So definitely try the tacos in both styles!

Tacos Roy

Tacos Roy is the closest to a “chain” on this list, but they are definitely good tacos. Many swear by the El Pastor tacos, but I was actually a bigger fan of the Carnitas. Almost every taco on their menu is around a $1, but oddly the vegetarian tacos were $1.50? Regardless, in and out and with a full stomach of tacos for under $5 ain’t bad.

tacos al pastor (pork marinated in chili and achiote paste)
Tacos al pastor (pork marinated in chili and achiote paste) at Tacos Roy.
Three tacos on a plate
Tacos Roy. Cheap, easy, and delicious.

What to eat at Tacos Roy Restaurant in Oaxaca
El Pastor tacos are all the rage, but try the carnitas, and the Gringo if you’re nasty. 

Tacos Del Llanno

This food stand in only serves one type of taco: tacos de tasajo. Hey, when your one thing is this good, don’t screw with it. For less than $1 a taco, it’s the best taco deal I found in Oaxaca. Make sure you add all the toppings too, like pickled onions, cilantro, and salsa, since that’s where the “authentic” way of eating mexican tacos is at!

Cheap street tacos with green sauce
Tacos Del Llamo deliciousness

What to eat at Tacos Del Llanno Food Truck
Straight up just a bunch of tacos de tasajo. Start with 3 (you don’t pay till you’re completely done) and go back for a couple more…and a couple more…

Herbivora – My Winner For Best Vegan Tacos In Oaxaca

Maybe one of my favorite taco spots overall, ever. This tiny vegan taco restaurant is only maybe 10’x15ft, with room for 6-7 to sit while the two owners take care of cooking everything from scratch right in front of you. 

This place serves their delicately crafted vegan tacos with love and care, but the tastes are out of this world. 

Vegan tacos in Oaxaca Mexico
Herbivora vegan tacos…nom.
Vegan tacos from Herbivora in Oaxaca Mexico
Vegan tacos from Herbivora. Make sure you taste them all!

What to eat at Herbivora Vegan
Try them all, because you can do it for about $1.50 a taco…but make sure you have the fried potato tacos. Wow.

Humar Seafood In Oaxaca

Easily the fanciest and more expensive on my list, Humar Seafood is more of a middle-high dining taco or seafood spot. But the beer-battered tacos are delicious and the presentation is off the hook. All while sitting next to an open door out to the street while comfortably inside their trendy spot on the outskirts of Centro. 

Picture of people eating at a restaurant from the street in Oaxaca Mexico
Cool vibes at Humar for fish tacos.
Fish tacos on a plate from Humar in Oaxaca Restaurant
Fish tacos at Humar in Oaxaca

What to eat at Humar Seafood in Oaxaca
Raved as one of the best restaurants in Oaxaca for beer-battered cod tacos. Get those and whatever else your budget will afford you on a splurge kind of night!

Tacos De Lechón Taco Stand

Never got to try this taco stand personally, but my friends swore by it. It’s hit or miss as to when it shows up on the corner it’s supposed to, so good luck! 

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Where to Eat Breakfast in Oaxaca City

With tacos out of the way, we’ll back up to the most important meal of the day. These are some of the best breakfast restaurants I found in Oaxaca. 

Onnno Lonchería – Favorite Breakfast In Oaxaca

This place is legit, and definitely one of the best restaurants in Oaxaca. Chain across the door because it fills up and sometimes has a line, but super quaint and chill on the inside. The breakfast sandwiches are the size of your head and plenty to share. Granola bowls that are Instagram ready. Baked goods that will make you close your eyes and moan…in a public space. (Raises hands slowly…)

A breakfast sandwich with egg and avocado
Onnno Loncheria for the win.
A breakfast sandwich with cheese oozing out of it
The amount of cheese on this breakfast sammie from Onnno Loncheria is ridiculous. And the bread…

 What to eat at Onnno Loncheria Restaurant in Oaxaca
The breakfast sandwich. If there are multiple options, the one I’m recommending had their fresh baked bread, an egg crepe filled and folded with cheddar cheese, avocado, etc. Amazeballs. Bolus early if that’s your jam. 

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breakfast sandwich and a yogurt bowl
Beyond the sandwiches, the yogurt bowls at Onnno Loncheria are on point too.

Yegolé Café

Another tiny breakfast joint that is hard to spot from the outside. This place felt trendy and was a little more pricey, but we’re really only talking about an extra dollar or two at the end of the day. 

What to eat at Yegole Cafe
Again, the breakfast sandwich on a buttery, melt-in-your-mouth brioche bun. The only sandwich I had served on brioche in my 2 months in Oaxaca, and it stood out.

Egg and ham on a brioche bun in Mexico
Egg and ham on a brioche bun at Yegole Cafe in Oaxaca.

Glück Vegetarian

Gluck is a super vibey and trendy vegetarian/vegan restaurant in Oaxaca, but it’s so approachable and the two staff that are usually on put a lot of care into everything. And the little notes that accompany the coffees or plates delivery a tiny, thoughtful message to help improve your day. Bravo. 

What to eat at Glück Vegetarian in Oaxaca
The avocado toast is off the hook. It has red beet spread and chia seeds and is simply amazing. Yeah, those things sound weird, but trust me; worth it. Lots of good vegetarian options to pick from. 

Avocado toast and an latte
Gluck Avocado Toast. La solucion ilegara cuando fluyas — The solution will come when you flow

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Other Favorite Restaurants In Oaxaca

Centro Gastronómico De Oaxaca

What a cool space Centro Gastronómico De Oaxaca is. When you enter, you’re greeted with this contemporary structure with small food stand eateries scattered throughout the bottom. Up top there are even more small stands with a stage and central eating area. Tons of food options on the cheap, especially on the weekends when it’s a little busier.

Centro Gastronómico De Oaxaca also hosts cooking classes, food workshops, and culinary events. These things help visitors learn about traditional cooking techniques and heritage of the Oaxaca region. Definitely make a stop here!

I had the tamales from the stand right inside the main door for about $1 per tamale!

Sicilia Pizza Y Pasta—Best Cheap Italian Food In Oaxaca? 

This Italian restaurant was an unexpected surprise. I was walking about with a friend and we realize we were hangry and looked around to see what was near. Sicilia Pizza Y Pasta had great reviews, so we went. It’s a super quaint spot on a fairly loud and busy street with only about 4-5 tables inside. 

What to get at Sicilia Pizza Y Pasta Restaurant in Oaxaca
The bruschetta, hands down. One of the tastiest I’ve tried, and I try a lot of bruschetta! We also had a pizza, which was giant and delicious. I’m guessing it’s hard to go wrong with anything here!

Herba Dolce—Favorite Vegan & Vegetarian Restaurant

I ate here three times, the third being a complete throw-down for two where we filled an entire four-seat table with food and drinks! Herba Dolche is easily one of the best restaurants in Oaxaca, and the reviews prove it. The experience is amazing, and the foundation and ethics behind the restaurant and the food speak loads. From the Herba Dolce website: 

We offer plant-based food, we cook with ingredients from local trade and clean cultivation. A completely deindustrialized restaurant, we prepare everything from the base, without accelerating cooking or fermentation processes. 
No added sugars and oils. 

Inked mushrooms in black sauce in Mexico
Setas entintadas en recado negro—Inked mushrooms in black sauce at Hierba Dulce
Huitlacoche mushroom fungus tacos with guacamole
Huitlacoche mushroom tacos with guacamole on tostadas at Hierba Dulce. Mold/Fungus never tasted so good.

Beautiful setting, amazing visual plating of every dish or drink, and top notch food and flavors. It presents like a lot of fine dining restaurants, but without the pretentiousness. Do it. 

What to eat at Herba Dolce Restaurant in Oaxaca
To drink, try the tepache, a fermented pineapple-based drink. Then try the Inked Huitlacoche mushrooms on tostadas, the Pibil mushroom tacos, Ceviche, and any of the soups. 

Huitlacoche, also known as corn smut, is like the “Mexican truffle” of the corn world. It has a deep, earthy taste. It’s often used in quesadillas, tacos, soups, and tamales. It’s considered a delicacy in Mexico.

Pibil mushroom tacos at Hierba Dolche Vegan Restaurant
Pibil mushroom tacos, soup, guacamole, and tepache drink at Hierba Dolche Vegan Restaurant.

Casa Taviche

Casa Taviche is a little more of a spend, but still, not too bad. It’s a nice little sit-down restaurant with plants everywhere and a quaint little bar area. The presentation of the food and drinks is beautiful, and the food was delicious. 

What to eat at Casa Taviche Restaurant in Oaxaca
Try any of the salads. They’re also known for their mole, so never a bad thing to try wherever you go in Oaxaca!

Favorite Coffee Shops And Bakery In Oaxaca

Muss Cafe – Like Drinking Your Coffee In A Tropical Jungle

If you love plants, you’ll love Muss Cafe. But here’s the trick; there’s a tiny coffee shop off the street, but you have to go past that, through the courtyard, and up three flights of stairs to the real magic. That’s where you’ll find the rooftop terrace at Muss Cafe, completely enveloped in floor to ceiling plants. 

One of the best coffee shops in Oaxaca I found for just sitting and writing and reflecting.

Plants in a courtyard coffee shop in Oaxaca Mexico
View of the plants from Muss Cafe in Oaxaca
Plants in a courtyard coffee shop in Oaxaca Mexico
Muss Cafe. Love working surrounded by plants.

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Boogie Café / Librería

Not one of the best cups of coffee ever, but the atmosphere at Boogie Cafe in Oaxaca is my jam. Two little indoor library/lounge areas complete with cats sprawled out wherever they please. And there’s a nice rooftop as well, so make sure you grab a drink and head up there in the evening when it’s cooling off. 

Glück Vegetarian

Yep, Glück is back on the list. Possibly some of the best brewed lattes I had in Oaxaca, and the presentation alone is worth the trip. Delicious coffee with a bit of inspiration? Yes please. 

Oaxaca En Une Taza

This small coffee and pastry shop near the city center in Oaxaca gets you out of the tourist madness on a busy day. Delicious pastries and plenty of drink options in a cute little space. 

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Boulenc

Easily up top for the best bakery in Oaxaca City, Mexico. The have a cafe/restaurant that you can sit down at, but you can also just swing through their pastry counter if you’re out exploring the city. Breads, pastries, quiches, and tons of delicious desserts. Go nuts. 

Best Chill Rooftop Drink In Oaxaca City: Son De Aqui

I fell in love with Son De Aqui on my first night in Oaxaca. A bunch of new friends met up there and we spent an hour or so sipping drinks while watching the sun set over the city. It’s a cool artsy space with really expensive art, but this cool rooftop bar area. In the later evenings a DJ sets up spinning chill beats and a local food artisan sets up to cook Oaxacan dishes.

Son De Aqui is easily one of the best places to watch a sunset in Oaxaca. Beautiful views of the city day or night…but especially night!

What to have at Son De Aqui Rooftop Terrace in Oaxaca
Try the local Kombuchas. Some of the best I’ve had, and they’re made locally. I even reached out to the maker and purchased some quarts at a much better cost than what you pay at a restaurant or bar! Or Mezcal is always a good option since it originates in Oaxaca!

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Quaint Live Music Spot In Oaxaca: New Babel

This little spot will hold memories for me for years, since I visited with a group of about 15-20 friends and we packed the tiny 15’x15′ room where the live music is. (And 15×15 is generous!) Great memories. And being so close to the local musicians is such a nice vibe.

Three Mexican men playing live music in a small club
Literally feet away from the musicians at New Babel.

Before You Go: The Basics You Need to Know Before You Travel To Oaxaca

Oaxaca, Mexico, is a feast for the senses—full of color, culture, and ridiculously good food. If you’re thinking about traveling there, here are some details to help you plan your trip like a pro.

Where Exactly Is Oaxaca, Mexico?

Oaxaca City is tucked down in southern Mexico, about a six-hour drive (or a quick flight) southeast of Mexico City. It’s the capital of the state of Oaxaca, which is a hotspot for culture, landscapes, and mole.

What’s the Weather and Altitude Like in Oaxaca, Mexico?

Oaxaca’s got altitude—about 5,000 feet above sea level to be exact. That means cooler nights and mild days, even though it’s technically in the tropics. You’ll get warm days (80°F/27°C in summer), crispy cool nights in winter, and a rainy season (May–October) where it usually just dumps rain for a bit in the afternoon before clearing up. Pack layers and maybe a lightweight rain jacket, especially if you’re going in the rainy season.

When’s the Best Time to Visit Oaxaca?

Of course that depends on your travel style, but here is the lowdown:

  • Peak Season: October through March is hopping. Think iconic Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) celebrations in late October, or just perfect weather for wandering markets and sipping mezcal.
  • Shoulder Season: April, May, and September are quieter but still great. You’ll save a little cash, and the crowds are thinner.
  • Low Season: July and August can be rainy, but it’s lush and green. Plus, it’s a great time to explore the nearby mountains.

How Do You Get to Oaxaca?

If you’re flying in, Xoxocotlán International Airport (OAX) is your spot. It’s a small airport, about 30 minutes from the city center. (You book get a cheap shuttle from the airport…) There are direct flights from Mexico City, Monterrey, and even some U.S. cities. For a more adventurous vibe, long-distance buses from places like Puebla or Mexico City are affordable and surprisingly comfy.

How Do You Get Around Oaxaca?

Once you’re in the city, you’re golden. Oaxaca’s super walkable, especially in the historic center where most of the action is. If you’re heading out to nearby spots like Monte Albán or Hierve el Agua, you can book a rountrip tour.

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Whew! I’m Exhausted and Hungry!

There you go. Results from my exhaustive “research” from living as a digital nomad in Oaxaca, Mexico for over two months! I loved my time there, experiencing the kind people, culture…and food! I’ll be back!

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Cheers!
— Jason

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Travel Planning Tips

Figure out where you are going & how are you getting there…
I suggest using at least 2 to 3 different travel search sites. Start with Skyscanner or Orbitz or Booking …or whatever aggregator site you prefer. Then when you see what airlines to use, check their respective sites for better deals or rewards flights.

Figure out where you’re going to stay…
If you’re interested in hostels, search Hostelworld or Hostelling International. For longer-term or more private digs, look at Airbnb, VRBO, or you can look for hotel rooms in the links from the search engines listed above. 

Get comprehensive travel insurance, or in the least, travel medical insurance if internationally…
Especially with Covid not going anywhere, get covered. Start with an insurance aggregator like Insure My Trip, or with SafetyWing, World Nomads, or another. Then decide what is important to you; trip cancellation, baggage coverage, medical, or all of the above. And get a yearly evacuation plan, since you’ll have to get home after your emergency! 

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